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Details define your craft.
They define ours, too.

Welcome to the Tannery Row Artisan Workshop. Tannery Row leather, both rich and well crafted, is inspired by the tradition of old world craftsmanship and heritage of consistently providing the highest quality leather.

Over the next few months, we’ll be adding articles written by industry experts. To understand the complex
beauty of leather, we’ll provide educational tips ranging from choosing the right leather for projects to behind
the scenes at the tannery.

Join our community and become part of the artisan leather revolution. Let us help you bring the finest to your customers.

Tannery Terms

  • Aniline
  • Aniline Finish
  • Buffed
  • Crock
  • Crust
  • Draw
  • Emboss
  • Finish
  • Mill-Dyed
  • Pasted
  • Pull-up
  • Retan
  • Shell
  • Toggled
  • Vegetable Tanned
  • Weight
  • Wet Stuffed
  • Cementable
  • Combination Tanned
  • Corrected Grain
  • Fat Liquored
  • Full Grain
  • Hand Glazed
  • Hot Stuffed
Aniline:

Dyes and finishes that contain no pigment. When used on leather they provide a rich, clear stain that allows the natural character of the article to be seen.

Aniline Finish:
Leather finished with a clear top in order to show the natural grain of the leather.
Buffed:
Leather that has been sueded. It can also be referred to as snuffed, nubuck or grain-sueded leather.
Crock:
Color that rubs off finished leather.
Crust:
Leather that has been tanned but not finished. Crust leathers are often colored/dyed, but no finishing oils or treatments have been added.
Draw:
Shrunken, shriveled or wrinkled grain surface of leather.
Emboss:

To give a flat piece of leather a pattern or texture that stands out in relief through pressing with tremendous pressure.

Finish:
A surface application on the leather to color, protect, or mask imperfections.
Mill-Dyed:

Leather that has had dyes introduced during retannage.  Also referred to as drum-dyed.

Pasted:

Leather that has been dried by fixing it to large glass or ceramic plates.  Pasted leathers have very little stretch and smooth grain character.

Pull-up:

The temporary lightening of certain leathers when folded. This is caused by displacing oil and waxes.

Retan:

To impregnate and condition preserved hides with tanning liquors and extracts.  Retan formulations at Horween Leather Company are proprietary and developed in house.

Shell:

A dense fiber structure found only in the hindquarters of equine animals.

Toggled:

Leather that has been air-dried after being stretched on a metal screen and clamped into place.

Vegetable Tanned:

A tanning method that employs vegetable liquors derived from tree barks. This method of tanning is very traditional and takes longer to achieve than chrome tanning.

Weight:

Also referred to as thickness or substance.  Leather is generally sold in ounces or millimeters, and in increments of 1/2 oz or 0.2 mm, respectively.  For example, 5 – 5 1/2 oz (or 2.0 – 2.2 mm) is a typical footwear weight produced.

Wet Stuffed:

Similar to Fat Liquored, Wet Stuffed leathers are nourished and conditioned with emulsified heavier oils and waxes.

Cementable :

Refers to leather(s) that can be glued as a means of final attachment during the construction of leather goods.

Combination Tanned:

Leathers that are tanned using both chrome and blends of vegetable extracts along with emulsified or unrefined oils and waxes.

Corrected Grain:

Leather that has been sanded to make its surface more uniform.

Fat Liquored:

Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with emulsified oils.

Full Grain:

Leather that has its surface left completely intact, showing all natural characteristics of the hide.

Hand Glazed:

Leather that has been polished with a glass rod.

Hot Stuffed:

Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with unrefined oils and greases.  This is achieved without the use of water and emulsifiers and gives a much richer feel. Hot stuffed leathers typically exhibit pull-up and good water resistance.

Our Story Continues …

  • What is the minimum order?
  • Returns
  • Is Cordovan available by the side?
  • What ounce weight is Cordovan available in?
  • Do you offer pure vegetable tanned leather?
  • What is the turnaround time for my order?
  • Do you publish price list for all of your leather offerings?
  • Can you send me leather swatches?
What is the minimum order?
For items that are in stock we can accept orders for 20 sq ft, which is one side of leather. For custom runs, the minimum order is dependent on the product and the leather weight. Generally, custom runs will start with a minimum order quantity of 150 sq ft per product and per color.
Returns
If there is a problem with your leather purchase, you can return the uncut leather within 30 days of the invoice date and we will refund the purchase price. Please return the unused leather and a copy of the invoice to our physical address. Original delivery fees are refunded only if returns are for defective leather or incorrect orders placed by TR. We are not responsible for return freight costs.
Is Cordovan available by the side?
Cordovan is a unique product produced from a particular part of the horsehide. The irregular shaped shells are tanned with a 6 month tanning process that is unique to Horween Leather Company and the end result is a leather that has a rich, distinct look. On average the shells will measure 1.75 sq ft per shell and is dependent on the grade that we have available. At the moment, only our Cordovan Chips are available in Black and Color 8 (Burgundy) with extended lead times.
What ounce weight is Cordovan available in?
Cordovan will vary in weight from shell to shell and even within each shell. We normally see a weight range of 2.5oz. in the flap area and up to 4.5oz in the center of a heavy shell.
Do you offer pure vegetable tanned leather?
Yes. Essex/Dublin/Derby, Cordovan and Russet Horsebutt Strips. We introduce a rich blend of oils and waxes into the Essex/Dublin/Derby leathers which distinguishes from other tanneries offering vegetable tanned leather.
What is the turnaround time for my order?
On average, orders are delivered within 3-8 weeks depending on whether the order is from existing inventory, sourced from a load of leather running through the tannery or a custom order. More precise timing is available when the order is placed.
Do you publish price list for all of your leather offerings?
We do not because the hide market fluctuates frequently. Prices are dictated by the type of leather, ounce weight and quantity requested. Horween Leather Company produces the highest quality, US tanned leather available in the marketplace. Prices typically range from $8-$13 per sq ft. Please contact us directly to review pricing options.
Can you send me leather swatches?
Yes. Leather swatches are free of charge for customers in North America. Shipping charges apply to customers located outside of North America.

Blog:

Check out this Q&A with John and Nick from...
Blog img 2

Here’s a preview of the session yesterday, to read the full Q&A follow this link. Question: Hello Gentlemen, I have a few shell cordovan shoes, and the ones made with Horween are my favorites. Can you please explain why shell sometimes gets water spots? What do you recommend we do when this occurs? I do note […]

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